Chef Mia Oriño of KamayanATL uses silis, chiles beloved in the Philippines, in a coconut milk stew to create flavors that are unique to the Visayan region.
Bicolano flavors are represented in Atlanta, near the OTP (outside the perimeter) and Buford Highway, where KamayanATL has opened in a neighborhood with Asian cuisine that draws customers from as far as Mississippi, Tennessee and Alabama. Some of Savage's third-wave flavors include chicken curry, spinach and cheese and humba, a slow-cooked pork stew tenderized and seasoned with pineapple juice and baking spices like star anise and cinnamon.Īcidity in the form of Sinigang, Adobo, Kinilaw and Paksiw is a thread that finds itself on almost all tables throughout the 3 regions of the Philippines, but in one corner of the southern province called Bicol, heat and spiciness is ubiquitous and the base of many dishes. (Ask about the origins of parmesan lumpia.) Chef and co-owner Emilou Savage avail the empanada fillings of standard carinderia-style food, but for a standout meal, try one of his curious adaptations that demonstrate food is an ever-evolving artform. At this husband-and-wife, Blackapino-owned eatery, the entire menu serves your gastronomical and educational pleasures. In an unassuming strip mall in Colorado Springs, visitors get the chance to explore history through bites at You-ka Cafe. There are various doughs, and empanadas may be fried or baked, but the shape and the filings tend to stay the course with slight variations depending on the country. We'd learn that the loose translation is the verb "blanketed in bread" (as in envelope) and that the dish and its name is rooted in Spain and spread to Mexico and Philippines through interloping conquistadors. The course might start with the humble handheld pie known as The Empanada. Wouldn't it be great if there was a class in school called "Eatamology"? The course syllabus would break down the roots of various dishes' names, tracing branches of their family trees, and exploring techniques and historical context.
For decades, we learned to seek assimilation and to hide in plain sight.
It's my belief that a narrative of shame was born here, as well as a lasting desire for safety and survival, which led to Filipino cuisine and culture receding into the shadows. One of the most troubling moments of Filipino history in America took place at the 1904 World's Fair in Missouri, where no less than 1,000 Filipinos, many of them Igorots from rural mountainous regions were displayed in human zoos and forced to eat up to 20 dogs a day, bathe and "live" for the entertainment of the many Americans that flocked to this disgusting and inhumane exhibition. I didn't know, for example, that Filipinos were the first Asian settlers here (we've been coming to the United States since the 1500s), nor did I fully understand the racism and prejudice behind the legislation that prevented my forefathers from obtaining jobs or marrying outside of our culture. As I looked at restaurants across the country, each state revealed some things I had not known about Filipino history in America.
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